Majestic Playgrounds: The Villa d’Este Concorso d’Eleganza

Published by Mike on June 11, 2017

Rarely such a long overhang belongs to so charming a car.

[Editor’s Note: Not long after taking in this year’s Mille Miglia, our Italian correspondent, Matteo Giacon, availed himself of what the rest of us in the home office would consider a dream assignment, the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on the shores of Lake Como, once again to eagerly share his experience with us. Grazie, Matteo!]

In case of doubt, what to do during a late Italian spring hot, sunny, Sunday? Sleep until noon? A trip to Adriatic sea just to take advantage of sun? A trip to some Dolomites resorts, if a too warm climate is not up to your taste? A walk along some classy, monumental downtown? A visit at some museum? Or something worthy enough to encompass in a single package all the cited possibilities? I bet that the last option is, in any case, the very best one could choose. And, in case you like classic and antique cars, cars belonging to the “never seen before” category – or to the equally enthusiastic “I always dreamt of seeing them again” school of thinking – then what better occasion than a day at the Villa d’Este Concours d’Elegance? Ok, Concorso d’Eleganza, in Italian, is a more apt term, but nonetheless gives you the idea about this event. This is easily the best Italy can offer regarding this realm of the veteran motordom, and the added incomparable location is perfect both for a connoisseur’s deep insight at the various cars shown during the event or also for whoever wants simply to take full advantage of an added cultural gem to an already sublime scenery. The Lake Of Como background is, after all, one of the most romantic place in the world: No wonder if the deep Italian passion for everything on wheels – well, almost everything – could appear so suggestive also thanks to the setting chosen for this event.

But romanticism aside, it is the simple sight of a varied group of selected jewels that should every year capture the heart, tantalize the mind or salivate the appetite of whoever came there, whether he, or she – how many gorgeous ladies! – was enamored of the location, of the cars or of the magic aura surrounding both these things. And I cannot imagine a better day than past last May Sunday, full of hot sun and delicate breeze, quite the best mix. No, rain wasn’t there, thankfully, and the lake did its best to provide us with a gentle touch which was totally useful and grateful during the battle to taste the cars – and the ensemble.

Where the gentle breeze passing through the cars came from

And the location, the place and the weather’s own poetic allure evidently conquered me too, for these words of mine are written as a mean of describing my own first-hand impressions and first-hand thoughts about one of the most renowned – and revered – events of its kind in Europe; this is not an official, around-the-clock timed relation of what happened there. Also the official categories the organizers devised to divide the selected cars are a bit different than my own first-sight ideas about the Concours, and all what was about it. Again, I think that my own “class selection” of cars can be equally at home in a text describing the Villa d’Este Concours. Maybe not everybody will agree with my own way of thinking, but surely the photos I was able to take of the stars will provide entertaining material for quite every real car aficionado, or at least I hope so.

I cited above the word “battle;” it wasn’t a far-fetched term to describe the eagerly awaited for Sunday opening, because patrons gathering around the gates were truly numerous, so, albeit in a more gentle manner than average, still there was that kind of intense scramble to enter that predates every self-respected great event. I thought there might be fewer people flocking to the expo, but this was a very naïve thought, for as early as 9:30 a.m. there was already a veritable mixed crowd of ladies, gentlemen, boys, girls, aficionados, inquisitive persons and the likes, all of them waiting for quietly before gates were open. Once into the majestic park, the surprises just began to prop out. I bet that all the best events similar to this Italian one can offer this same thriving expectancy, but your humble author, usually used to somewhat more rude car shows, still couldn’t believe how effective the various bikes and cars officially concurring for the various categories’ awards could be, while trying to convey a mystical and magical flavor. I could almost say that once in the park, the sight and the allure of the cars were preceded by that gentle breeze I cited above.

This year, organizers had selected – like every year, for that matter – a theme which must have guided them to choose the various vehicles seen in Villa d’Este. The theme, at least for the automobile category, was “Around The World In 80 Days – Voyage Through An Era Of Records.” But to me, it seems that this year the best moniker could simply be “The Best Way To Go To A Picnic On Lake Shores.” No doubt, practically all of the cars and motorcycles seen here could easily have qualified for such a possible alternative theme. And just like organizers used every possible iteration of their main theme to subdivide and to name the various categories created to gather the ensemble of cars and bikes, so I did too, only I named them in a slightly different mode. I hope readers will pardon me for such a diversion (official site of the Concorso will provide also the various prizes’ winners, with more info about the cars also, if desired), but I felt almost obliged to take such a way to describe the event: It was a perfect combination of too many romantic elements to prompt me to do so, and I bet that also among readers there could be many which would have done the same kind of choice. By the way, the various official automobile categories ran as follows:

Class A – Speed Demons: Endurance Pioneers Of The Golden Age
Class B – Travelling In Style: Around The World In 40 Years
Class C – Goodbye Jazz, Hello Radio: Full Speed Into The 1930s
Class D – Faster, Quieter, Smoother: Heroes Of The Jet Age
Class E – The Grand Tour Continues: The Next 40 Years
Class F – Fast And Flamboyant: Playboys’ Toys
Class G – Supergioiello: Little Toys For Big Boys
Class H – Shaped By Speed: Racing Through The Decades

My own categories are going to be slightly different, but nonetheless I don’t think they are too far-fetched either; after all, the organizers surely had a great deal of wisdom while choosing the cars, so this made my fantasy galloping while thinking about a suitable text to describe the event.

Starting with the first cars to be spotted after the juicy appetizers offered in the regal rotunda and under a fine, auction-related canopy (a recent article ran by Hemmings describes in a perfect mode what the auction offered), everybody could instantly think that the way the cars were offered to the public’s eyes was perfect to showcase the various transportations’ formula dedicated to a hypothetical trip to a lake shore, in order to enjoy a relaxed outdoor day. And no small charm about this was offered by the owners’ preferred mode to stay close to their jewels, what with proper picnic sets, chairs, even clothes: Everything contributed to that relaxed ensemble which tantalized me at first sight.

So, that was what mostly contributed to create what kept to materialize in my own mind “The Best Way To Go To A Picnic On Lake’ Shores” was a resounding theme in my thoughts. No doubt, the gentle breeze coming from the lake and the hot sunny weather began to take their toll on myself – into my head especially. And I started to dream about my own ideas regarding those cars as soon as I spotted the very first jewels amid the grass.

A monument from the Brass Era, the 1908 Lancia 12 HP Tipo 51 Alfa Double Phateon bodied by Miller Brothers.

Here it is, the ex-Tyrone Power Duesie J Convertible Sedan, built in 1930 by Murphy

Those first cars to appear could easily slip in the hypothetical “Pick Your Family Aboard” sub-category: the brass-era 1908 Lancia, the ’26 Phantom I, an irresistible Itala Tipo 61, a Weymann-type Hispano Suiza showing its untouched leatherette cloth, an unexpected Lancia Dilambda bodied by Viotti in what the English parlor could describe as dual cowl phaeton, and that king of extravagant, the Voisin, were all cosy-looking, so much so it is difficult not to imagine you could pick all of your favorite relatives aboard one of them, even mother in laws, if necessary, and then starting for a relaxed day whenever your inclination would’ve been happy to bring you. But there was, among them, also a car which could equally be at home at an unofficial political parade, in case one of your family members were to be a real VIP of sort: I was very happy to see a real Duesie in metal, thanks to a majestic ’30 Murphy-bodied convertible sedan…. no need to say more.

The ’38 Mercedes 540 K Convertible Sindelfingen

The impossibly cool 1934 Tatra 77

Going farther, a second group of cars appeared: Here, they could still easily belong to the aforementioned category dedicated to whoever wanted a fast and dignified, practical too, car for the family. But as a whole, it gave me the idea that these cars were more ideal for a “Escape With Your Best Friends Aboard” type of owners. The monumental Mercedes 540 K Cabriolet A or the Alfa 6C 1750 Gran Turismo could easily qualify for this type of owner: sure, they seem also the ideal cars for a romantic journey, but I can’t help but to imagine a pair of close friends commuting in secrecy to a nearby casino, just to try their luck. And the imposing? monumental? stately? – pick your favored choice here – duo of another Merc, a 770 D Cabriolet, and a Horch, an equally astounding 853 A Sportcabriolet, still convey to my mind the image of a group of friends devoted to enjoy a well deserved, and a bit larger than life, trip, carelessly crossing large numbers of countries. A similar thought, but maybe somewhat confined to the surefooted realm of an European Autobahn or Autostrada, caught me when I spotted the Tatra. No wonder this was always considered a grand car: In metal, it is even more impressive, and your average Impala would surely suffer somewhat in comparison.

The princely Maserati 5000 GT Iniezione by Allemano

After this group of cars, where another Rolls, and a neat Bentley ragtop conveyed a bit of dignified demeanor to cars pretty much belonging to those one could dream of driving while enjoying quips and jokes with close friends aboard (and the Bentley’s damask interior surely was more akin to a good Victorian cabinet than something else), there was a bunch of cars perfectly fit to be the definitive “Love Machines:” cars intended for fast, enticing, but most of them all, sentimental journeys on Alps or Rivieras – or, even better, a neat Italian lake, like here. To this group I can number the Bentley Cresta by PF, a French Grand Routieres not belonging to the extravagant Flamboyant types (a ’51 Salmson), a Mille Miglia-ready Alfa 6C 2500 ragtop again by Pinin and, most intriguing, a Maserati 5000 GT and a Ghia-bodied Fiat 8V Supersonic. The latter two were undoubtedly some of the most gorgeous cars here, and this despite the captivating competitors: They were radiant, they were polarizing, and not even the Lagonda Rapide placed between them could distract me from thinking how fit for a pair of enamored humans they could be! The Lagonda, by the way, seems like the perfect car for a lady desiring intimacy with her man, but also deep practicality, thanks to a good deal of roominess.

A small, nice oddity, the Steyr-Puch based Intermeccanica Imp 700GT

Roominess, by the way, isn’t exactly what came to mind first when taking a look at two nice curiosities parked, almost lost, in the middle of the grounds: a Cisitalia-Abarth Coupé Scorpione with a delightful cloth made by that never-too-much-recalled Italian great name that was Allemano, and an Intermeccanica Imp 700 GT bodied by Fratelli Corna, despite the name a Steyr-Puch based oddity and not an Hillman-derived Etceterini. Here, better to be rather intimate with whoever you wanted aboard, for the sober interiors weren’t exactly in the same realm of a Nash Airflyte.

The (Dual) Ghia -officially only Ghia

Unmitigated excesses await, on the other hand, whoever picked one of yet another group of cars. Here, they could be aptly described as “Hot Blooded Chariots For Sinners:” undoubtedly, these were the perfect cars for the perfect crime – of love, of course. Totally suited for a furtive meeting between two “desperate” souls, cars the caliber of a Gene Casaroll’s Ghia L6.4, a Miura, a lime green Ferrari 365 GT/4 BB, a burgundy-deep 250 California in GT Spider prototype format and the definitive playboy shuttle, the 365 California. In this respect, perfect cars for intimate relationships of lore can also be a superlative OSCA MT 4 Berlinetta Vignale, the Giulietta Sprint Speciale prototype (also remarkably anonymous, courtesy of lack of the typical Alfa scudetto here, for its lines are a voluptuous and impossibly cool approach at what we are now used to term Coke-bottle shape) and a selection of some of the most renowned GT cars of all times: a deep-blue Flaminia Zagato, a Siata 208 S, an Aurelia B24 Spider, an early Lambo, an elegant 250 GT Europa and another veritable chariot for the happy few, a 300 SL. Surely more extroverted, but equally of the the type described above: a special oddity (the Astra Coupé created by Jay Everett) and a delightful Vignale-bodied Fiat 8V (so, considering the Siata 208, no less than a remarkable five percent of all cars on the grass were Fiat 8Vs… what an achievement!).

The seductively suave Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato

But the following cars weren’t only extroverted, they were also expressly dedicated, in my mind at least, to those with little time to spend on a leisurely trip, no matter how quick this could be; they surely belong to the “Time Is Never Enough” type of drivers, those who favored solo driving, solo quick restless courses, those always with the pedal on metal, those who like mountain trips, mainly, because mountain trips mean breakneck turns and spirited driving zest, mainly. So, this kind of owner-driver should’ve been quite happy with things like a Cobra, a DB4 GT Zagato, a 250 GT SWB (in its early rendition), a Maser 300 S, a pair of full race Prancing Horses still recognizable as road cars and a 911 RSR. For that matter, also a far more ancient car, looming peacefully some yards away on the field, a Bentley 3 Liter made in two-seater tourer format by Park Ward back in 1922, can easily belong to a category where most cars looked like they were built for those still appreciating some sort of travel, provided it had to be done in the most unnerving possible manner.

Roaring Twenties at their best, the Bentley 4,5 Litre

But there were also those who favored trips for one purpose only: full racing. No hints of even remotely-related adventures on open roads, not even the faintest possible sight of a quick course toward a tourist place for some adventurous holiday. No, they would love their possible visits to some resort only if it would provide them with some kind of race, some kind of challenge. Not even a furtive night-long escape with an equally unofficial lover was enough to them; not even a fast solo travel on some unnerving, primitive road, full of turns, rolling-coasting lanes, unpredictable vales, never-ending inclines could satisfy their tastes. Only a long sandy beach could be what could attract them toward sea or a lake, and only a hill-climb of sort could capture their senses and make them inclined to take a trip toward some bucolic mountain scenes. This was the realm for full-bred racecars, of course, so the type of category where they belong could easily be named “Unlimited Game, Where There Are No Rules.” Well, in reality, being these cars bound for some sort of sanctioned race, surely rules could be aplenty, but in my mind images of racers trying to defy themselves and risks with nonchalantly flavor conjure up, so much so that I think rules could well be confined to a pro-forma bureaucratic formula: In other words, the sky is the limit, and only drivers’ sensibilities can help them to obtain the best from these cars, without risking too much. By the way, cars like a Bentley 4.5 Liter Open One Seater, an iconic Bugatti Type 35, a Ballot 3/8 LC surely appear as the definitive unrest, unlimited racers of the kind so sought after by whoever wants to remind the heroic, early sagas of the pioneering racers, making breakneck speeds on so clashing “buggies.”

The Abarth 1000 Bialbero Record

But buggy is not kind to what surely can belong to this last described category, despite being small, indeed very small. Thriving is surely a way better term to describe them. Emotional too. Pure and simple, so close to the most undiluted idea one can have regarding the way a car must be raced, that they are quintessential race cars, built only with one thing in mind: Speed, with a capital S. No matter if their engines are tiny, minuscule when compared with the Lycoming of the Duesie or the 383 of the L6.4; no matter if their dimensions, especially for one of them, make also the otherwise tiny Osca MT4 a sort of Garganthua. Welcome to the rarified world of the record-seeking cars, welcome to the magic only the Nibbio and the Abarth 1000 Bialbero Record can give to whoever take an even fast glimpse at them.

And The Winner Is, The Nibbio!

No wonder then, if the renowned Coppa d’Oro (prosaically, Golden Cup in English) via the public referendum was awarded to the small record-breaking Nibbio, arguably one of the cutest racers ever. Even the smooth Pininfarina-designed Bialbero pales in comparison to the Nibbio for sheer audacious simplicity of form. And the other prizes?

The incredible front end of the Giulietta SS prototype, sans the typical Alfa scudetto.

Well, the Giulietta Sprint Speciale prototype won the BMW Group Trophy, a.k.a. Best Of Show by jury vote, as well as the BMW Group Italia Trophy (also by public demand), while patrons up to 16 of age chose the green Alfa 6C 1750 as their favorite one (good choice! Because of personal experience, I can testify that sometimes, Alfas in green are far better looking than anything else); various class winners were, in class order: the Ballot 3/8 LC, the Duesie, again the green 6C 1750, the Supersonic 8V, the 250 GT Europa Speciale, the Miura (and it couldn’t be anything but, considering people flocked to it like bees on honey…), the Giulietta Sprint Special again and the Maser 300 S. Best Of Show among the veritable and spectacular selection of motorcycles was a sumptuous Puch 250 Indien Reise, which was still ready, like its name implies, for a magic travel towards the Far East. Public gave overwhelming support to the 2016 Ducati Café Racer.

No, I didn’t assist at the final parade, where the chosen cars are presented and prized. There were way too many spectators, and this did deter me from participating at it. But it was nonetheless a relatively minor problem for me (I hope to be no heretical here), because nonetheless what I find so fascinating about this kind of show is the relatively close contact everybody can have with the cars before the “main” event; in this case, arriving so early in the morning gave me a spectacular opportunity to come really quite close to the showcased vehicles, so I bet that taking a nice glimpse at the car as early as 10:00 a.m. had a charm pretty much similar to the one enjoyed by those watching the final prize-givings. What I experienced was comparable to the Mille Miglia backstage moments I was lucky enough to live only a few days before Villa d’Este, and likely every bit as charming as the revered, all glamour and glitz, final award’s moments.

This BMW 327-28 was the first car to appear before spectators’ eyes

But I also spoke of appetizers, for whoever wanted to take a glimpse at the various corollary events which were to be held during the three days of Villa d’Este. First among them, BMW’s own show, with a selected array of big coupès heralding the arrival of the new Series 8 (which gave me the opportunity to finally take a close look at the Bertone-bodied 3200 CS: rarely BMWs would have looked so similar to normal production Alfas like with this very car, courtesy of its greenhouse so close in styling to the 2000 Sprint and the Giulia GTs also masterpieces by Bertone, created when the promising young Giugiaro was coming of age in the early Sixties at Nuccio’s and Giovanni’s atelier).

The Maserati M2 scooter, built in 1957

A rather interesting scooter, the Prina Orix

Then, there was the plethora of concours motorcycles, an interesting added showcase, with some juicy 50 cc bikes, a typical Italian specialty. Photos show them and give a good idea of an eminently Italian phenomenon, the so-called “ciclomotori” with limitations in speed and capacity (yes, their motors were around 4 cubic inches in displacement), but nonetheless remarkably cute and racy-looking, a far cry from an average moped. And also seeing a Maserati-badged scooter was a surprise, while it wasn’t a surprise for me seeing that the Brough Superior’s nick (The Rolls Royces Of The Two Wheelers) was totally deserved.

Here is how the auction’ star looked like on Sunday morning

Last but not least, a nice auction with a bucketload of sensational items; while the recent Hemmings article described what were the hot items in it, here too I had my own favorites, and here too they weren’t the usual suspects. My heart was caught off-guard by a splendid Aurelia Vignale, but I must say that I had some difficulty not to be in the same condition also while taking a look at a duo seldom seen together, the Zagato-bodied Aston Martin Vantage and Volante. To me, they are maybe the best way to conclude this article: They are already 30-odd years old, yet they look positively modern, to the point to look like nowadays production items if seen from some angles. But they are now classics of their own. No marvel if people gathered close to them to appreciate the white Lambo or the red F40; but to me, rarity is the name of the game, and I must say that also understatement divas like these refined twins bodied only 30 miles away from Cernobbio still give me more emotions than a normal Ferrari or Snorting Bull car. That’s what led me to Villa d’Este: rarity, regardless of sheer ephemeral value. And I was lucky enough to meet what I wanted. Definitely a recommended experience for whoever feels that also a simple Fiat Strada spotted in the parking car lot (like I did) deserves its spot in history, albeit clearly monuments like the Duesie or the Voisin are in a far different galaxy.

Considering that the most coveted prize was given to a simple, nimble, record-breaking car powered by a small motorcycle-derived motor, likely others during the event had similar thoughts.

But now, let’s stop with words, and let the photos speak again for themselves. They are worthy enough, and often they are worthy way more than sheer words. I cannot imagine what kind of problem a ruinous raining could have been, in case such a hot sun wouldn’t be there helping us to appreciate the grass-scattered cars. Thankfully, the only problems created by the sun were its reflections on the super-shiny metal and the people gathered for the rare occasion. But in both cases, I doubt these are problems: I bet that these are more peculiar details desired by every uppermost car shows.

Villa d’Este surely delivered them, and in a grandiose manner. Needless to say, I can’t wait for the 2018 edition to happen again. I just started to count the days going before the next Concorso: 365, 364, 363…